Yesterday, I arrived at Siwa Oasis after an overnight bus trip. It is a small town about 550 kilometers away
from the capital and somewhat detached from the hustle and bustle and
developments of the outside world. Time
had stood still in this conservative town of about 25,000 inhabitants which somehow
has a different culture from the rest of Egypt. Perhaps owing to its ethnic background, being
of berber origin.
People are more calm and gentle, not the usual heavily accented tone I
got used to hearing from most of the population in the capital. Several of my colleagues are from Cairo and
Alexandria and some of them have that really thick brogue that sometimes it’s
difficult for me to interpret if they are angry or making a point or simply telling
a story. I can’t seem to spot the
difference.
The Siwans are rather calmer and if communication is not possible, they
just smile. I think the inherent traditional
background had somehow endured.
Anyways, it’s early morning, the sun is not too bright yet and I have
to find a transport to see the highlights of the town. Coincidentally before crossing the main
intersection right after passing by the vegetable and fruit store, I saw the same
tricycle driver that picked me up at the bus terminal yesterday. He smiled at me and asked me if I wanted to go
around the places of interest, and how could I turn down a bargain of EGP35 for
two hours. I jumped in to his vehicle
and off we went.
The 3-wheeled tricycle in Siwa is much like the tuktuks of Bangkok
although a bit jagged. It’s sort of a DIY
3 pieces of plywood nailed together to form a shade under your head, seats covered
with pads and carpets to make it comfortable to sit on.
The tricycle drivers in Siwa are honest workers and
can give you loads of information on accommodations and places to see. So if you’re on a budget, they should be the
first line of tour resource.
About a kilometer from the town center, we reached
our first itinerary was- the Mountain of the Dead which is accessible
through some stairs to get to the ticket booth. The guy at the booth asked me
if I’m a student, I said yes (obviously I’m not) and asked for an ID card which
of course I can’t produce and he knows it, so I just have to pay the smiling
guy the full entry fee of EGP25.
The mountain of the dead is a lump of rock hill
with several cavities around its edges revealing small cave-like rooms. On top of it is a smaller mushroom-shaped rock
hill that resembles something like, well, it’s up to you to decide, look at the
picture. The place is a necropolis with
tombs carved around its thresholds dating back to Ptolemaic and Roman periods.
Mountain of the Dead. |
Tombs at the Mountain of the Dead, |
Most of the cave-like crevices are empty, some of
the bigger ones that have steel gates have inscriptions and elaborate drawings
on its internal chamber. It’s a bit
daunting but climbing to the topmost level of the hill affords a nice view of
the town, the vast green palm trees and the lake in the distance. The location of the necropolis is about a
kilometer or so from the town center. After
less than half an hour I went down back to where my tricycle was patiently waiting
and we navigated the dusty street to the Temple of the Oracle located at
the village of Aghurmi.
There are local women and children selling souvenir
items right before the gate. The temple is
a big complex that sits on top of a rock plateau above the village and can be ascended
through a path on the side of the rock hill.
The entrance on the top is through the ruins of an old mosque which
dominates the whole temple.
Temple of the Oracle Complex. |
The Temple of the Oracle. |
It is said that the Oracle was visited by prominent
figures in history and mythology like Perseus, Eubotas, Lysander (the Spartan
General), Pindas (the Greek poet), Hannibal, Strabo and several others. Prior to the visit of Alexander the Great, it
was called the Temple of Amun during the reign of Amasis around 570-525
BC. It was told that Alexander consulted
the Oracle in 332 BC to seek confirmation that he was indeed the son of Zeus.
It is evident that this used to be inhabited during
the past, there was a deep well and several underground passages. The temple of oracle itself is located on the
far end standing right at the edge of the cliff constructed from concrete
blocks of stones which is much disparate from the materials used on the other
structures surrounding it. Entry
Fee is EGP25, Students pay 10.
Few meters away from the Temple of the Oracle, is
the Temple of Umm Ubayda which is said to be a part of the whole
complex. Nothing much left of the temple except the reconstructed portion of a
wall with figures of several deities carved on its facade and erected like a
monument, and couple of inscribed concrete slabs that have tumbled down below
the wall. It’s an open-air monument so
entry is free.
Temple of Umm Ubayda. |
The last stop is the Spring of Juba,
popularly known as Celopatra's Bath named after the Ptolemaic Queen of
Egypt who according to legend has visited Siwa and bathe on its waters.
In the past, this pool that is fed by natural spring
that create blubbles from beneath was used by local brides as pool bath,
perhaps vefore the wedding ceremony, but it has charmed some foreign visitors and
has been made as a tourist attraction.
There are visitors bathing on the pool although the
green water looked dull to me. Although
the locals told me it has some therapeutic properties because the water is
coming from a natural spring, well, I saw a can of soda at the bottom of the
round pool.
Table and chairs on the side of the pool. |
Some enterprising people has taken advantage by
putting up some restaurants, a shisha café and some juice bars serving
expensive drinks around one side of the pool.
Nothing truly interesting about it but it’s along the way to and from
the Temple of Oracle so why not pass by.
Cleopatra's Bath. |
My tricycle driver drove me back to the town center
after my two-hour tour for the day. It
was an interesting tour all-in-all. I
was starving so I passed by the East West Restaurant with one of the few English-speaking
local around town manning the cash register, located near the intersection of
the town. The meals are reasonably
priced and I ordered a curried chicken and vegetable, sat at one of the chairs
outside the patio and had my late lunch while watching the passing donkey
carts.
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